New York Restaurants

My friend Dick Parsons says that there is no where in the world where you can eat better than New York, and nothing you can't find in this magical city. While I don't necessarily agree with this sweeping statement, he does have a point. I'd like to share with you some of my favorite New York City restaurants, and welcome your insights and "hole-in-the-wall" finds in return.

1. SMITH AND WOLLENSKY (mid-town) $$

   New York is replete with steak houses, and S&W certainly isn't its most famous establishment. Many swear by Peter Luger, just across the Williamsburg Bridge, whose cow-like steaks enchant all. Luger's is indeed a New York Institution, but for me S&W holds a special place. It might be because Tommy, the restaurant manager, and I grew together. Or because it is Dick's favorite New York restaurant, and we always went there before we had a baby, which was quite often. It might be because they have great artichokes and whipped cream which for me, not a huge meat lover, is important. Or it could be because the crusty waiters, the noisy room upstairs and the great wine list are a true New York experience for me.

2. BABBO'S (downtown off Washington Square) $$

   I'm a fan of Mario Batali. I'm sure you know by now I'm a picky person when it comes to food, and I admit this fault. My family calls me the Koala bear, since they believe I can only survive on eucalyptus leaves, like the koala. I think this is an extreme characterization, but see the point. It takes a lot for me to fall in love with an Italian restaurant, and Babbo has done it. I'm hooked. Even the noise level downstairs doesn't faze me. I dive straight into the gnocchi with the oxtail sauce and the beet salad, occasionally even go for the flavorful Bolognese, and I'm in heaven. Batali stays true to the roots all the way, and his execution is outstanding. The friendly waiters stand out too, but beware of the lines – the place is hopping 24x7.

3. Gray's Café (mid-town) $$$

   Gray Kuntz is a legendary chef. Most of us know him from the Lespinasse days at St. Regis. He is now in the Time Warner building, serving awesome food in a very casual (including jeans!) environment. The menu is seasonal and changes often, but the unexpected seasonings are ever present and continue to surprise the palate in many pleasant ways. The other day I had his rabbit and fois gras dish, a magical combination of beautifully cooked saddle, sliced filet and shredded thigh meat, all in tarragon-perfumed sauce with tiny squares of Grannie Smith apples for a welcome sweet tartness. The ratatouille came with a touch of cumin, perfectly browned pine nuts on top and a beautiful gazpacho as its bed, and the lemon verbena sauce complimented the black sea bass perfectly. As waiters went by I could smell freshly snipped dill and other heavenly aromas. I confess the bread could use improvement, but the rest of the meal was outstanding, including the chocolate tart in elderberry sauce, the chocolate and passion fruit soufflé and the not-sweet-enough peach with lemon verbena syrup.

4. Al Bustan (mid-town) $

   There is nom place on earth where you can find hummus like Abu Shukri in the old city of Jerusalem, but many come acceptably close. Al Bustan is a good example, While the food isn't as delicious as Al Hamra in London or Minaret in Jerusalem, the baba ghanoush is tasty, the hummus of perfect texture. Falafel and kibbeh are effectively fried, and the mint tea flows freely. Of special note is the salad, which is adequately lemony, something I hardly ever get the opportunity to say, and the pitah is served warm. The Bamyah (okra) stew with lamb chunks is one of my favorite and a classic Arabic dish. It is cooked in tomato sauce, the bamya is tiny as is should be, and, when poured on top of rice, it is reminiscent of the rice with Bamya you get in Istanbul, where I was served the smallest and most delicious okra ever. Arik, my youngest, and I go to Al bousten daily when we're in the city, where is demolishes two plates of hummus per meal. It's a safe bet for all!

5. Le Bernardin (mid-town) $$$

   I am not a fan of fish. It is too fishy in my book. However, there is one place where the fish is perfect every time, whether it is uncooked, slightly cooked and maybe cooked (these are the menu categories). That place is Eric Ripert's Le Bernardin. It offers an outstanding combination of superb fish (I especially love the ponzu sauce, citrusy yet never overwhelming) prepared creatively and to perfection, and terrific and imaginative desserts. It is a perfect restaurant for me. The menu is ever changing but customer satisfaction is always assured!

6. Milos (mid-town) $$

   Milos is another fish place but it is so very different from Ripert's restaurant. The fish speaks for itself, the dishes are not imaginative but oh so fresh, and the accompaniments are delicious. Milos excels in freshness and simplicity. You can pick your fish before you start your meal, the fried calamari and other appetizers are excellent, and the beets especially tasty. I like Milos because it has something for everyone, even for me. It isn't fancy nor snooty, and it boasts among the freshest ingredients in town.

7. Virgil's BBQ (mid-town) $

   BBQ is a great American invention, and many a city claims to be its Mecca. The neat thing about Virgil's is, it offers all kinds of BBQ, from the Memphis kind which I love to the vinegary North Carolina kind with I dislike. You can take your pick and have excellent BBQ almost as if you're in Tennessee, Texas or the Carolinas. The gargantuan desserts also don't detract from the overall experience

8. Pailliard (uptown) $

   Pailliard was Daniel Boulud's pastry chef. He and Daniel then opened this fabulous pastry shop on Lexington in the 70s, where you can find anything from authentic and outstanding French pastries to breads and an intense chocolate sorbet. You can also have lunch, but why would you? There are much better pastries to be had!

There are so many other great restaurants and restaurant rows in New York. I didn't mention 46th Street and the Brazilian row, with Churrascaria Plataforma as its crowning glory, where waiters roam around with huge slabs of meat on skewers which they slice off directly onto your plate. I didn't touch upon the best Black-and-White cookies in town at Café Europa on 57th and 7th (I buy them by the two dozen since everyone in my family loves them, and the crunch of the white icing is just perfect). I didn't write about Little Italy, its immortal Ferarras pastries with the best cannolis in town, or Il Cortile for the angel hair pasta in pink sauce. Nor did I mention Boulay and Chanterelle downtown, where you can find impeccable food and a wonderful Fallen Chocolate Soufflé cake. I also am remiss to omit Osteria del Circo's bomboloni, the great dessert perfected by Jacques Torres. Plus, New York's famous delis, most notably Carnegie Deli, where Arik always dives into a huge bowl of matzo ball soup with perfect broth and I demolish an enormous chunck of best-ever smoked whitefish (those delis do have gangantuan portions, thank God). And what about Scalini Fedeli for its Osso Bucco, or Piano Due for simple and wonderful Italian fare? I guess my friend Dick Parsons is right. New York has more great restaurants than any other city in the world. Please share your favorite with me as well!