Florence and Venice

A ROMANTIC TRIP TO FLORENCE AND VENICE

These two towns offer the best of Italy, to my mind, esepcially when it comes to couples. Below are some thoughts on where to stay, what to eat and what to do. These suggestions will fit most pocketbooks, and, I'm sure, all palates…

Venice:

Hotel: Expensive: Gritti Palace: right on the water, awesome breakfast spot overlooking the canal; rooms decorated in ancient frescoes and glorious Venetian glass chandeliers, yet rooms are comfortable and well appointed. Also, it's not too snooty.

For the budget conscious, try Best Western, which is three blocks from Piazza San Marco, where all the action is. It's not charming but perfectly well located and very CLEAN. I stayed in both and find both quite acceptable.

For food:

1. A must is sitting at café Florian on Piazza San Marco and looking at the people feeding the pigeons. Part of the experience is sipping on their indescribable hot chocolate (you really must) while gnawing on their Italian cookies. One kind in particular, the chocolate ones of course, is amazing! Some people say that Le Café on Campo Santo Stefano serves better hot chocolate, but I disagree.

2. For best tiramisu as well as plenty fresh ingredients, go to Al Teatro by the recently restored Teatro Fenice. Don't go to their sister restaurant, right behind this one, which is twice the price and half the food quality.

3. For where the gondoliers eat, go to La Rivetta, by Piazza San Marco. If it's open, ask Sergio, the mustached waiter, for his home made limoncello. It's delicious and lethal, so stop after a couple of glasses, even though it tastes mostly like lemonade.

4. If you insist on a hugely expensive and stuffy restaurant, do Antico Martini. Avoid Harry's Bar at all costs; a greater tourist trap is hard to find. Their Belinis are good, though (champagne and peach juice), so a cocktail is OK, but pretty lease NO FOOD! Also, Harry's Dolci on the Lido is cool.

5. Osteria Sora Al Ponte near the Rialto Bridge is also a good spot to eat Venetian specialties, some of which are inedible, such as Bacalla (dried salt cod), but the tripe is better than you'd think,. As is the liver Venetian style (Fegato Ala Veneziana).

They say there is good gelato in Venice, but I'd wait until you hit Florence and go to Vivoli. It's worth the wait!

For experiences besides the usual haunts:

1. Realto food market isn't just a food market. It's a happening place with all kinds of food on display plus crafts, souvenirs and other cool stuff. It's a great morning walk, and is open every day but Sunday.

2. The best mask shop is hard to find but is not on the main drag. You can smell the glue walking by. It's a spot for artisans who hand make their masks, and they are truly exquisite.

3. The Peggy Guggenheim Museum is too incongruous to the environment, but is special nonetheless.

4. If you're into seafaring, take a boat to Burano. It's a cute island, beautifully painted homes and lots of handmade lace. Avoid Jerusum in town since everything costs an arm and a leg, but the Burano stuff is more affordable and, if nothing else, it's a fun ride.

5. A funky clothing shop with unique velvet stamped coats is right on Piazza della Academia, to the left of the Piazza as you enter it from the San Marco direction. Cool stuff, somewhat pricy but you'll never see anything like it anywhere else.

   There is so much more, but these are a few highlights.

   About Florence:

   For hotels:

   1. The best, both in terms of location and service, is Rocco Forte's The Savoy. Sir Forte sets a special standard for his hotels, and the Savoy is no exception. The rooms, bathrooms, fitness facilities and breakfast buffet are all outstanding, and the service flawless. Plus, it's centrally located in Piazza de Republica, which can't get any better. You can find amazing specials online, so I won't recommend anywhere else. It's worth the price.

   For food:

   1. Across the Savoy is Gilli, a 250 year old institution with fabulous pastries (try the bombolini, a custard filled, light-as-air doughnut; the Napoleons are also quite acceptable, and the chocolate éclair worth crowing about) and good spaghetti Bolognese. Their cappuccino is also to die for, and it's a great haven for weary shoppers and travelers alike.

   2. The place to go is La Giostra, where Dmitri, an Austro-Hugrarian empire aristocrat and his son Soldano rule the roost. The restaurant is small, quaint and full of atmosphere. Just have Dmitri decant a bottle of pure Sangiovese Teatro wine and you'll see what I mean. Don't miss the pasta, and the Osso Bucco is also of supreme quality. They also have this special dessert for lovers, which Dmitri aptly named after the famed Austrian princess Sisi, whose love for Franz Joseph has been fabled. The dessert (warm strawberries, caramel sauce and heavenly semifreddo) is fabulous and it is meant to be eaten by two people, and the story that goes with it is even better!

   3. For superb gelato, head on to Vivoli, a close contender to the Best Gelato In The World Crown (the other is another family owned, 100+ year old ice cream place in Rome, Giolitti). Not to be missed!

   4. Garga is also a fun and interesting restaurant, combining true Tuscan fare with very American cheesecake (the owner's wife's recipe). Strange but fun!

   5. Florentine pizza is great! It's served in squares, not wedges, and the various shops by the Duomo are simply delicious. The crust is crusty, nothing about it is soggy, and the toppings are intensely flavorful, be it the pepperoni to the artichoke hearts. Alas, you will not find ham and pineapple toppings here...

   For experiences besides the usual haunts:

   For special sites for the romantic couple, Ponte Vecchio is a must. Don't leave without a keepsake, especially now that gold prices are somewhat back under control. The first shop on your right as you enter the bridge is worth a second look...

   Strolling around the Piti Palace gardens is another pleasure not to be missed during fare weather, and the costume gallery in the museum is fascinating. It's a bit hidden and make sure you buy tickets in advance for this gallery (they won't tell you that at the door). In the Ufizzi gallery, the Boticelli room is my absolute favorite (both Venus and the Spring paintings are beyond description), and, of course, David at the Academia is an amazing structure and work of art as well. You can get advance tickets for all these museums at your hotel, and the Savoy is most accommodating.

   Both Florence and Venice are casual towns, so no need for even a jacket for men or high heels for women when you go to any of the restaurants mentioned here...

   The best part abuot Venice and Florence for the romantic couple (or for all travelers) is getting lost and making your own discoveries. The places are too small to REALLY get lost, and the hidden treasures are plentiful. Enjoy!