Paris Revisited - May 2009

Liat and I panned Paris two years ago when we dropped by before the food pilgrimage tour. The cuisine has become too avant-garde, with emphasis on exotic ingredients and new flavors, straying too far from the basics.

Imagine my delight when, on the way back from Krakow, we stopped in Paris for a couple of superbly fed days. It all started when we arrived at our hotel at 7pm and decided, on a lark, to try the celebrated new restaurant at Le Maurice hotel, where reservations are near-impossible to get. Surprisingly, we could walk right in, and at 8pm started our dinner. The two Michelin starred chef, Yannik, is 35 years old, but has wisdom and talent well beyond his years. The food was well conceived and flawlessly executed, with creative dishes using fresh, seasonal ingredients. From the six crusty and flavorful bread varieties through the amuse buche with the unexpected gherkin mousse topping a smidgen of pot-au-feu, through the white asparagus napped in chanterelle foam and the fois gras stuffed quail, everything was delicious. Presentation was interesting, with much table-side preparation, some whimsical and reminiscent of the French Laundry. The sweets were also brilliant, with a theme of raspberry-apple laced throughout the five different deserts we tasted. Service was unexpectedly friendly and appropriately attentive. The price was steep, to be sure, but the food certainly warranted it.

The next day we tried Le Pergolese in the 16th district, a single star restaurant. The menu was more predictable, from the crayfish ravioli in intense lobster sauce to the veal chop, but execution was excellent. I inhaled my turbot, which is saying a lot, given that I don't like fish. Dessert was an OK soufflé Grand Marnier and a fabulous home-made chocolate éclair, chock-full of chocolaty pastry cream.

For lunch we went to Laduree, the venerable Parisian establishment well known for its macaroons. While those remain delicious, I found the other pastries too unconventional. For example, we could not find basic vanilla Religieuse. Instead, the two available flavors were rose water and violet. Give me a break! The food, though, was a pleasant surprise. Dick enjoyed his basic fish tremendously, and I loved my salad of perfectly sautéed baby artichokes, beets, fresh lettuce and other tasty morsels. I recommend to saunter down Rue St. Honore to the café on your left side (same side as Laduree) 2-3 blocks toward Place de la Concorde. Settle comfortably in the back and enjoy anything from a levain roll to fabulous mille feuille, éclairs, fruit tarts etc.

The last dinner was at one of Christian Constant's new restaurants, Constant Café. I loved it! The food was basic bistro, with prices to match, the atmosphere festive and extremely casual. Pergolese had better food, better wine and better service, but the feel of Constant's casual restaurants can't be beat. Plus, if you don't like the menu, go two stores down to his newest contribution, Le Cocotte.

No visit to Paris is complete without going to Rue Rosiers at the Marais to enjoy some great Jewish pastries (although Szacha Finkelstein has slipped lately; try the café next door instead) and the best falafel in town.

Also, if you haven't visited Le Bon Marche's food hall on the left bank, you should. And, if you have, I KNOW you're going back. What a treasure trove of great airplane food to take back with you, or just to picnic anytime! I feel better just knowing it's there...

Bottom line: Paris is back on the map, having re-awakened to its roots.