Edinburgh Restaurants

The British Isles are not well known for their food. While London has emerged as a culinary powerhouse, it has not been due to the resurgence of British food. And Scottish food, Haggis and all, is considered even worse.

Thus, when I arrived in Edinburgh, I had modest expectations for culinary delights, I bought a lot of provisions at Marx and Spencer to prepare for the arid restaurant scene. The finest in town by Michelin and others' standards, Martin Wishart, confirmed my suspicions. The place was off-putting, staffed by self-important French waiters, and the food was mediocre while being grossly overpriced.

A visit to Number One at the Balmoral proved a pleasant surprise. The service was outstanding, the wine delicious and reasonably priced, and the food tasty. The best part, though, was anything the French pastry chef produced, from his amazing Gruyere bread to the peaches roasted in honey and accompanied by olive oil ice cream (yes, I know, it sounds vile but it IS so good). The chef captured my heart when he baked for me two breads for the plane ride back - cheese and multi grain, as a gift.

The finest dining establishment, though, was the single Michelin starred, two forks (i.e. totally not fancy) restaurant of Tom Kitchin. I was leery of the restaurant from the get go. It's near Wishart's place, and there was no menu online. Two bad omens. The menu was also limited, and I ended up ordering the ox tongue in tripe sauce (eek, right?) and then the rabbit.

Imagine my surprise when both dishes were stunning, accompanied by outstanding demi-glace and pea sauces, as well as perfectly cooked and seasoned vegetables (including the sweetest roasted beets ever, from the Island of Arran).

Then came the desserts, courtesy of the German chocolate master chef. Chocolate soufflé was of perfect texture and even more chocolaty thanks to dusting the ramekin with cocoa rather than sugar. The whipped cream I requested wasn't the usual gooey and thick concoction but the sweet air I'm used to getting in Austria. His Apricot Tart Tatin was phenomenal, and accompanied by home made vanilla lavender ice cream which Dick devoured.

So, if you happen to visit Edinburgh, don't fall victim to Dubh Preis's tourist trap Scottish fare. Go to Stac Polly if you must, or, instead, have great pigeon breast and venison at the Grain Store on Victoria Street, and don't miss dinners at Number One and Kitchin.